Wines You Need to Know About
Georgia is a small country, about the size of West Virginia. It is nestled between the Black Sea and the Caucasus Mountain Range and bordered by Russia, Turkey, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. I had the pleasure of attending a Georgian Grand Wine tasting event featuring over 100+ different wines from 20 different regions within the country.
The country’s winemaking tradition has been continuous for over 8,000 years. The Georgian wine industry is in a period of rediscovery, renewal, and growth. The uniqueness of Georgian wine lies in the secret of its making process, which dates to ancient times. Unlike most Old-World wines, Georgians do not use oak barrels to ferment, store, or age their wines. In fact, the oldest evidence of winemaking points to the use of “Qvevri”.
Qvevri, Georgia’s Calling Card Wine
In a classic instance of the tail wagging the dog, Georgia is known by many people for qvevri wines, which are fermented (and sometimes aged) in clay vessels—its namesake qvevri—that are often buried underground.
Representing only 1 percent of all Georgian wines, qvevri wines themselves come in different styles. There are dry red wines made from Saperavi and other red grapes, such as Otskhanuri Sapere and Tavkveri, but it’s the amber wines, produced from white grapes fermented in qvevri with skins and sometimes stems, that have become Georgia’s calling card.
These wines are characterized by a completely different flavor and texture profile from other Georgian wines and therefore merit designation as a distinct wine style. The skin contact deepens and adds complexity of flavor. The tannins form a significant part of the wine’s structure, offering freshness, oxidative strength, and sometimes even finesse to the finished wine.
Although the Amber wines- they are amber in color because the wine is fermented on the grape skins- were too harsh and intense for my liking, plenty of people I spoke to at the event found them captivating and wanted more. The grapes are harvested from the vines, slightly crushed, and then put in a qvevri with skins, stems, and seeds. The qvevri is sealed with a clay lid and buried in the ground.
Like French wines, Georgian wines are also named according to the source region, village, or district. Also, like French wines, Georgian wines are mostly made from the blend of two or more grape varietals. I preferred the reds and the whites that did not have skin contact- in some instances they had a taste similar to a Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand with a slightly acidic taste and flavors of grass, grapefruit and bold a fresh tasting.
We were delighted to meet Winifred Burnett, Sommelier, on why she enjoys Georgian wine. Winifred is a total fan and a smart Tomato!
We were in awe of the breathtaking views of the City at Manhatta restaurant- a Danny Meyer’s restaurant group in the financial district- and the rain and fog didn’t make a difference. Georgia’s wine—a symbol of her hard-won independence, individuality, and creativity—continues to flow through every facet of Georgian life and culture. Georgian wines can be found at several places in the NY Metro region and throughout major metro regions in the country. Please see attached link of where to buy: https://winesgeorgia.com/where-to-buy/
Roni Jenkins is a founding partner in The Three Tomatoes. She shares her social media and digital marketing savvy with the 3Ts. She is a Mom of three young children, is actively involved in several non-profit organization, including UN Women and the National MS Society and loves to run in the mud. She is inspired by her Mom and other women who have paved the way for working moms like her to be able to balance work and life. She is co-author (with her Mom) of a humorous book of quips, “Martini Wisdom.”
Thanks Roni for your excellent review of wines from the Republic of Georgia. They are just as you described; a bit more rustic and earthy, and especially delicious when paired with Georgian cuisine.
If I may add, in Georgia “toasts” before the meal are very important, and the position of “toastmaster” is a revered position.
I don’t know if you were able to try it, but Rkatsiteli, arguably the most popular white varietal in Georgia, and possibly one of the oldest grapes in the world, is produced by Dr. Konstantin Frank in the Finger Lakes Region of New York. Dry Rkatsiteli is light and refreshing and pairs well with seafood.
Hopefully, your insightful review of Georgian wines will inspire others to try them!