The Customs of Afternoon Tea

After reviewing a copy of Etiquette Faux Pas and Other Misconceptions About Afternoon Tea by Ellen Easton, sources in the British Royal Household confirm the information as correct with the comments:

“We would not make any amendments to the text” and “What a good article.” – September 2004

 

Twelve Months of Teatime

In preface to my article ©Etiquette Faux Pas and Other Misconceptions About Afternoon Tea, I would like to clarify the distinctions between the classification of class status, etiquette, social protocols, morals and ethics as per the dining/afternoon tea experience.

Etiquette and social protocols are not synonymous with morals or ethics.  One has nothing to do with the other.  A perfectly well-mannered person may not have any morals, whilst, in reverse, a highly ethical person may not have the command of any social graces. In addition, the term high class or upper class is often confused with one’s economic/financial status.

In particular, during the Victorian Era, the upper class was not a social state one could achieve by economic measures. One was born into the upper class. The Victorian upper class represented a status of birthright that included ancestral lineage, where one received one’s education and how one behaved and was received within a certain social circle.  Many a famous author has chronicled the trials and tribulations of the “impoverished upper class”.

Perhaps in today’s modern times of the twenty-first century, the term upper class has transformed to become an identifying marker associated with one’s economic/financial status.  For the purpose of relating the protocols and etiquette of afternoon tea, all references apply to the Victorian era from whence afternoon tea was born.

Please note, the etiquette and protocols explained are not the rules of Ellen Easton, but the rules of foundation as created and passed down from the Victorian era.

As an example, the term “pinkies up” is just that, terminology. It does not mean that one should hold one’s pinkie up in the air.  If one reads the explanation carefully, one will learn the correct manner in which one holds one’s teacup.

If one were to ask me my definition of the term class, I would have every hope that true class transcends one’s economic status, race, creed and color.  My definition of class is to be well mannered, considerate and to treat all others with dignity.

Afternoon tea was created to foster friendship.  May all of your afternoons always be filled with good tea and good friends.



Etiquette Faux Pas and Other Misconceptions About Afternoon Tea

 Due to the new popularity of Afternoon Tea many people have jumped on the bandwagon, including hotels, caterers, party planners and protocol & etiquette “experts”.  While their enthusiasm is well intended, unfortunately, a great deal of misinformation is being perpetuated by these “experts”.

While etiquette and customs do evolve over time, some issues are not negotiable. Just because some customs are practiced does not validate the behavior. Of course, the tea police will not be lurking behind your kettles, but if one is going to embrace such a lovely and genteel genre I would like to set the record straight. I feel privileged to be able to share with you the protocols that have been passed down from century to century.

  1. Pinkies Up! Originally, all porcelain teacups were made in China, starting around 620 A.D. These small cups had no handles. In order for one not to spill the hot liquid onto oneself, the proper way to hold the vessel was to place one’s thumb at the six o’clock position and one’s index and middle fingers at the twelve o’clock position, while gently raising one’s pinkie up for balance. In Europe, when the Meissen Porcelain Company, in 1710, introduced the handle to the teacup, the tradition continued. By placing one’s fingers to the front and back of the handle with one’s pinkie up again allows balance. It is not an affectation, but a graceful way to avoid spills. Never loop your fingers through the handle, nor grasp the vessel bowl with the palm of your hand.
  1. Napkins-Placement and Protocol: A truly formal table has only one correct placement for a napkin, to the left side of the place setting. The napkin should be folded with the closed edge to the left and the open edge to the right. There are no exceptions. This rule applies for rectangular, triangular and square shape folds. Note, that originally less formal affairs allowed a fancy folded napkin to be placed in the center of the place setting. Today, formal affairs permit a center placed napkin. NEVER place a napkin underneath a plate, not ever. One’s hands should not touch the place setting.  Additionally, one can easily knock over a filled glass when trying to lift the plate to retrieve the napkin.  A terrible trend that is not acceptable.

Contrary to recent “experts” advice, there is never a proper moment for one to place one’s napkin on a chair. The proper protocol when excusing oneself from the table, whether during or after a dining experience is to gently place one’s napkin to the left side of your place setting. This rule is not negotiable for the simple reason if one’s napkin were soiled it could damage the seat covering, damage that may be either costly to repair or irreplaceable. While the risk for soiling a cloth or one’s garment also exists, they can be laundered with relative ease.

Upon completion of a dining experience, a napkin folded with a crease and placed to the left side of your place setting indicates to your host or hostess that you wish to be invited back.

The expression, “to make ends meet”, derives from the 1729 French Court. The dress code for men included decorative stiff ruffled collars. When dining, a napkin was tied around the neck to protect their collars, hence the expression. Twelve-inch napkins are used for Afternoon Tea service.

  1. How to eat a scone: Again, contrary to recent “experts” advice {now I understand how rumors get started!} it is not only improper to slice a scone, in its ENTIRETY, horizontally to be slathered in jam and cream, it is very common behavior. Although some establishments will serve a sliced scone pre-prepared with jam and cream, this is merely a gimmick introduced to save time. It may now be ”acceptable” but it will never be correct. A hostess should instruct and insist that the scones, for large functions or buffets, be made smaller into bite size, ”standing room” size. The correct manner in which one eats a scone is the same manner in which one eats a dinner roll. Simply break off a bite size only piece, place it on your plate and then apply, with your bread-and-butter knife, the jam and cream. A fork is not used to eat a scone. Please, no dipping!
  1. Afternoon Tea food placement for a three-tier curate stand:

Top Tier = Scones ~ Middle Tier = Savories and Tea sandwiches~ Bottom Tier = Sweets

The protocol of placing the scones on the top tier is due to the fact that during the 1800s when the genre of Afternoon Tea first became popular, and modern kitchen conveniences did not exist; a warming dome was placed over the scones. The dome would only fit on the top tier. The savories and tea sandwiches, followed by the sweets, were placed on the middle and bottom tiers respectively. At the progression of each course  eaten sandwiches, scones and lastly, sweets, service would be provided to remove each tier.

  1. No Smoking. Aside from the health issues, the smoke will be absorbed into the tea and ruin the flavor of the liquid.
  1. Stirring Tea and Spoon Placement: Do not stir your tea with your teaspoon in sweeping circular motions. Place your teaspoon at the six o’clock position and softly fold the liquid towards the twelve o’clock position two or three times. Never leave your teaspoon in your teacup. When not in use, place your teaspoon on the right side of the tea saucer. Never wave or hold your teacup in the air. When not in use, place the teacup back onto the tea saucer on the table. If you are at a buffet tea hold the tea saucer in your lap with your left hand and hold the teacup in your right hand. When not in use, place the teacup back onto the tea saucer and hold both together in your lap.
  2. Drinking Tea: Do not use your tea to wash down food. Sip, don’t slurp, your tea and swallow before eating.

Milk…before or after? Originally all teacups in Europe were made from soft paste porcelain. The milk was added first to temper the cups from cracking. Once hard paste porcelain was discovered in Europe, by Bottger, in 1710, for the Meissen Porcelain factory, it was no longer necessary to temper the cups. Hence, it makes more sense to add milk after the tea has brewed. Before the tea is poured the host asks the guest if they wish milk and sugar.

As we are all aware, the correct brewing of tea cannot be judged by its color, therefore milk after is a wiser choice, but either choice is correct. Note, China did have hard paste porcelain before Europe; however, they did not use milk in their tea, as the blends were white, oolong & green. The reason the West calls porcelain China is because China was the country of origin for hard paste porcelain.

  1. Place settings: When in doubt, use the utensils from the outside towards the inside of the place setting. A petit knife and fork may be used together for use on an open face sandwich, preferably not on a closed sandwich. If savories are properly made, nothing will be dripping or gooey. However, with the fun of nontraditional foods now served on Afternoon Tea menus, this is not always the case. A petit knife and fork is proper for use with one’s pastries. Never place used utensils on a cloth or table. When not in use rest the utensil on the right side of the corresponding plate.

Sugar Tongs (3 1/4” to 6 1/2 “. The longer versions are called sugar cutters or sugar nips): The word tong derives from the European-Indonesian word denk, which means, “to bite”.

Sugar tongs were first introduced, in Europe, in 1780 to be used with compressed sugar. The compressed sugar was sold in cone shapes resembling the hat of a witch. They were called a hat.  This is where the expression ” I’ll eat my hat” comes from.

Sugar tongs = always. It is not about “old”  -to use tongs versus “young-to use one’s fingers.” It is about sanitary conditions and respect for those you are serving. It is unhygienic to touch another’s food…full stop, plain and simple. What if one had rubbed their nose, run their fingers through their hair, used the facilities and not washed their hands or has a skin condition, need I say more? I wouldn’t want this person to be touching my food. Certainly, in a public food establishment it would, in fact, be against the law.

When not in use, sugar tongs are placed either beside the sugar bowl or draped over the handle of the sugar bowl. Sugar artists were once as revered as goldsmiths. One who possessed sugar was considered powerful. 

  1. Afternoon Tea or Low Tea vs. High Tea: Please, do not refer to your afternoon tea as a high tea. Remember, a high tea is served in the late afternoon or early evening {5 PM to 7 PM} taking the place of dinner. Served at a “high” table with seated place settings. The foods are heartier and consist of salads, one or two hot dishes, pot pies, cold chicken, sliced meats, cakes, fruit tarts, custards and fresh fruits. The tea may be served hot or iced. The addition of any supper dish would be appropriate. An Afternoon tea is served between 3 and 5 o’clock at a low table; consisting of sandwiches and savories, scones and tea breads, sweets and tea. The two terms are not interchangeable. An afternoon tea is not a high tea. High tea does not mean high society.
  1. Proper Service of Lemon Slice vs. Lemon Wedge: A lemon slice can float in the teacup. Traditionally, the lemon slice would also contain a clove in the center of the lemon slice. The floating lemon slice continues to enhance the flavor of the tea. If one is serving a wedge of lemon, traditionally the wedge is covered in gauze or tied in a cheesecloth. This is to avoid the seeds and juice from squirting when squeezed. If one does not have a lemon press or squeezer, it is proper to use your fingers to gently squeeze the juice of the wedge into your teacup and then place the used wedge on either the side of your tea saucer or any service plate provided on the table.
  1. *Health Benefits-Green vs. Oolong vs. Black Tea: All tea blends are created from the Camellia sinensis plant. The only difference is in the fermenting-oxidation process, which cause the enzyme changes. While fermented is the customary term used, it is actually oxidation, not fermentation that is occurring. Green = unoxidized – unfermented ~ Oolong = partially oxidized – partially fermented~ Black = fully oxidized – fully fermented.

*One will benefit from the health properties regardless of the fermentation process.  It is the interaction of the natural flavonoids, fluorides and polyphenols, rich in antioxidants, which determine the free radicals defusing in one’s cells. This process stimulates the immune system and is said to inhibit, not cure, the spread of disease.

*It has been reported that drinking only two cups of tea per day reduces the rate of heart disease & blood pressure, inhibits the production of platelets leading to blood clots and the possible growth of tumors. The natural fluorides help to prevent tooth decay. Best of all, while not proven, it has been reported that tea drinking helps to stimulate the decrease in excess body fat! 

Note: tea does not cure or prevent disease. Always check with your doctor before beginning any health program. Children under the age of five should not drink tea. 

Photos and text copyright Ellen Easton. 2004-2024.

Ellen Easton, author of Afternoon Tea~Tips, Terms and Traditions(RED WAGON PRESS), an afternoon tea authority, lifestyle and etiquette industry leader, keynote speaker and product spokesperson, is a hospitality, design, and retail consultant whose clients have included the Waldorf=Astoria, the Plaza and Bergdorf Goodman. Easton’s family traces their tea roots to the early 1800s, when ancestors first introduced tea plants from India and China to the Colony of Ceylon, thus building one of the largest and best cultivated teas estates on the island.

Ellen Easton

Ellen Easton, author of Afternoon Tea~Tips, Terms and Traditions(RED WAGON PRESS), an afternoon tea authority, lifestyle and etiquette industry leader, keynote speaker and product spokesperson, is a hospitality, design, and retail consultant whose clients have included the Waldorf=Astoria, the Plaza and Bergdorf Goodman. Easton’s family traces their tea roots to the early 1800s, when ancestors first introduced tea plants from India and China to the Colony of Ceylon, thus building one of the largest and best cultivated teas estates on the island.

3 Responses

  1. Mercedes Serralles says:

    A reminder of the importance of detail attention and intention. Good rites and manners kept around and inside everyones life. Embelishment without exageration or futility make life or simple things
    important. The quality of life and tea is one of those precious things. Ellen reminds us about the esence of pleasant living something we should appreciate treasure and not trade for something less.☕️👑💖💐⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

  2. Mercedes Serralles says:

    A reminder of the importance of detail attention and intention. Good rites and manners kept around and inside everyones life. Embelishment without exageration or futility make life or simple things
    important. The quality of life and tea is one of those precious things. Ellen reminds us about the esence of pleasant living something we should appreciate treasure and not trade for something less. ☕️☕️☕️☕️🎂👑💖💐⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

  3. Ellen Easton says:

    Thank you Mercedes and Vilma. Miss you both.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.