Food-wise, Los Angeles and I came of age at the same time. When I got here, New York was the undisputed gourmet dining champ, but by 1979 young mavericks were blowing up the restaurant scene out west, and Wolfgang Puck, Alice Waters, Joachim Splichal, Nancy Silverton and two feisty Sues (Feniger and Milliken) were introducing Angelenos to ingredients and cooking styles that have long since crowned LA King of Foodieland. It was thrilling to eat here, and cooking classes at their restaurants became a go-to birthday gift. It’s no wonder I feel a special bond with the chefs of that era.

Cut to my birthday this year. I poked at reviews of the new hotties in town and realized #1. I just don’t have a working knowledge of these guys, and #2: I am not dying to sit down to a Korean-Middle Eastern fusion meal. So, I decided to re-visit a past love and try the most recent iteration of the Feniger-Milliken empire: Socalo.

I adored Iteration #1, City Café, their somewhat short-lived and most eclectic offering. Then, I ate at every Border Grill they opened and appreciated their rediscovery and embellishment of Mexican food, though I can’t say it was completely my jam; maybe a bit too authentic for me.

Now, perhaps the Susans and I are in sync again. Have we mellowed with age? At Socalo in Santa Monica I found the flavors distinctive, but not jarring; zingy, but not scorching (unless you’re self-destructive enough to dip into the macha salsa). There is depth and yet great lightness in each offering. This food is a treat!

Socalo’s menu is pretty compact, but even so, there are a bunch of dishes I’ll have to go back and try. Here’s what Foodie Friend #3 and I ordered:  to start, some mighty fine guac and chips, (of course).

We followed with a scallop crudo that literally melted in my mouth. Silky slabs of right-out-of-the-shell scallop in a splash of sweet grapefruit juice beautifully plated with radish, cuke and avocado; a perfect citrusy amalgam.

Next came the Santa Monica Street Bowl, chock full of crispy fresh veggies and garbanzo salad with crunchy quinoa that could easily stand alone, but topped with jackfruit tinga it sang. Tinga is a smoky, chipotle-in adobo and tomato sauce that in past times might’ve over-powered and scalded, but at Socalo the balance was struck perfectly, and I loved every bite. I’m no vegetarian, but there was no texture or flavor missed in this baby.

Even with the head on, the grilled adobo-marinated branzino with pickled onion and tomato-citrus salsa was totally appetizing and for a very bland fish, flavor-filled.

Then, we just had to have the vanilla flan with berries and a cinnamon bunuelo (think delicate Mexican doughnut) with a candle on top for dessert, and it was just the right finish to a richly-flavored and nuanced meal.

Socalo is super casual and very accessible, with free parking at the hotel next door, which all contributed to the welcoming vibe that made it feel like I was reconnecting to old friends. Happy Birthday to me!