About Gael Greene
Photo: Steven Richter
In her role as restaurant critic of New York Magazine (1968 to January 2002) Detroit-born Gael Greene helped change the way New Yorkers (and many Americans) think about food.
"Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Ice Cream But Were Too Fat To Ask," "The Mafia Guide to Dining Out." and " Nobody Knows the Truffles I've Seen" were early pieces. In more recent years her annual roundup of New York City's dining favorites, Ask Gael, was a gourmand's collectible for many years and she continues to write a weekly Ask Gael column for NYM. Earlier she worked at the New York Post.
As co-founder with James Beard and a continuing force behind Citymeals-on-Wheels as board chair, Ms. Greene has made a significant impact on the city of New York. Citymeals, the largest public/private partnership in the country, has raised $200 million in its twenty-six-year history to help feed the city's frail elderly shut-ins.
Ms. Greene's memoir, "Insatiable, Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess" was published April, 2006. Earlier non-fiction books include "Delicious Sex, A Gourmet Guide for Women and the Men Who Want to Love Them Better" and "BITE: A New York Restaurant Strategy." Her two novels Blue skies, No Candy" and "Doctor Love" were NY Times best sellers.
Gael Greene
Articles used with permission of Gael Greene, Copyright 2009. All rights reserved. Steven Richter's photographs may not be used without permission.
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For once I think I know what cuisine comes next.
Peru!
What is the next hot cuisine coming up? I’ve been asked that question dozens of times in my 40 years as a restaurant critic. My mind goes blank. Usually I say, “I haven’t a clue.” I think I once said “steak is dead.” What did I know? I never predicted Mexican or Vietnamese or novella Italian or even small plates. I was the last to notice cocktails.
Now I don’t want to jinx Peru but I think I see a glimmering of Peruvian food in the wings. Nobu was the first to bring Peruvian notions to New York. Nobu became a rage but Peru never really did. Certainly in Lima a few weeks ago I was immersed in Pisco – an alcohol they make from grapes that aren’t good enough for wine – and was thrilled to discover brilliant young chefs, not unlike our own, exploiting local harvests and food from the rainforest. At a classic Lima favorite, Astrid and Gaston, we ate guinea pig dressed up like Peking duck to wrap in a purple corn crepe. I learned the marketing chief was in New York looking for a space. La Mar Cebicheria Peruana is the concept A&G have opened already in the Embarcadero. San Fransisco, where it’s a hit.
Last night at Yerba Buena Perry the flounder tiradito with its aji amarillo (yellow pepper), sweet potato, red onion, cilanti and maiz cancha (yellow corn for toasting) is definitely Peruvian. And Barman Cervantes does a Pisco Mojito.
In Lima, our proudly chauvinistic restaurant guide was Guillermo Ferreyros, whose prestige Pisco carries his name in Peru but is labelled Pisco100 here for those of us who cannot roll our ‘Rs’. This clear spirit is made from the fresh must of blended grapes from the Inca region that, alas, are not good enough for wine but are perfect for this alcohol the Peruvians favor.
I asked Guillermo to send me his recipes.
Pisco Sour
3 parts Pisco 100
1 part fresh lime juice
1 part simple syrup
½ teaspoon of powdered egg white or ½ oz. of pasteurized egg whites
1 drop of Angostura Bitters
Preparation
In a shaker with 5 large ice cubes (not crushed ice), combine liquids (except bitters) adding egg white last. Shake vigorously for about 15-20 seconds. Strain into a six ounce rocks glass. Garnish with one drop of Angostura and serve.
***
Pineapple Piscojito
3 parts Pisco 100
2 parts fresh lime juice
1 part simple syrup
2 parts pineapple puree
Preparation
Combine liquids in a shaker with 5 large ice cubes (not crushed ice). Shake vigorously about 20 seconds. Strain into a tall six ounce glass and garnish with fresh or dried pineapple triangle and a sprig of mint.
