About Gael Greene
Photo: Steven Richter
In her role as restaurant critic of New York Magazine (1968 to January 2002) Detroit-born Gael Greene helped change the way New Yorkers (and many Americans) think about food.
"Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Ice Cream But Were Too Fat To Ask," "The Mafia Guide to Dining Out." and " Nobody Knows the Truffles I've Seen" were early pieces. In more recent years her annual roundup of New York City's dining favorites, Ask Gael, was a gourmand's collectible for many years and she continues to write a weekly Ask Gael column for NYM. Earlier she worked at the New York Post.
As co-founder with James Beard and a continuing force behind Citymeals-on-Wheels as board chair, Ms. Greene has made a significant impact on the city of New York. Citymeals, the largest public/private partnership in the country, has raised $200 million in its twenty-six-year history to help feed the city's frail elderly shut-ins.
Ms. Greene's memoir, "Insatiable, Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess" was published April, 2006. Earlier non-fiction books include "Delicious Sex, A Gourmet Guide for Women and the Men Who Want to Love Them Better" and "BITE: A New York Restaurant Strategy." Her two novels Blue skies, No Candy" and "Doctor Love" were NY Times best sellers.
Gael Greene
Articles used with permission of Gael Greene, Copyright 2010. All rights reserved. Steven Richter's photographs may not be used without permission.
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May I have Another Four Napkins, Please!
Rhapsody of denial: Giant burgers oozing fat, frites and onion rings.
Photo: Steven Richter
As a New Yorker, genus Upper West Side, I took the cloning of Five Napkin Burger on Broadway at 84th personally. Not quite the tooth fairy leaving an emerald under my pillow, but boy, the old neighborhood is looking good. I’m as much into cholesterol denial as anyone so I allow myself a burger once a week, usually by-passing the potatoes for a double order of cole slaw and a handful of frites I snitch from my mate’s plate. I also have never met a mac’n’cheese I didn’t try and I like to pretend Caesar salad is a veggie.
True, the new, eagerly anticipated seed of Andy D’Amico’s Ninth Avenue burger joint is just a couple of blocks from Nice-Matin, where the chef perfected the griddling and adornment of this 10-ounce slab of linen-frazzling ground chuck. Now even Chef Tom Valenti, a neighbor at Ouest, was looking forward to the burger next door. A huddle of early-birds gathered outside last Monday when the door officially opened at 5 pm and unfettered flocks have been piling in ever since, perching at the bar or clustered in the small entry waiting for a table.
The corner that used to be Ollie’s glows – it’s darkened inside but spotlights seem to be moving on red awnings above. Passersby check the menu outside and a doorman lets them in (at least till demand staggers decorum). “We tried to copy Ninth Avenue exactly,” says D’Amico greeting us. Shiny white tile, meat hooks and butcher scales, a few booths on one side, for now just wine and beer and cocktails starring wine or beer till the liquor license arrives.
I read the foodie blogs now and then so I know some New Yorkers are outraged if a burger costs more than $6. You combustible proletarians be warned: At $14.95 this is definitely an upscale burger with fries or any side you prefer, but it’s also dinner. The place is already a smash, a retreat for the recession where two can eat for $60.
Of course the partners hope we’ll eat more than a burger and a shake. That’s why there are entrées from $14.50 up -- fish and chips, steak frites, charred paprika-spiced salmon -- and starters from a pop-eats hit parade of temptations – chicken wings, tacquitos, chicken noodle soup with matzo balls. There’s a bow to sushi too. The spicy tuna and cucumber maki roll topped with tuna and avocado that D’Amico sends as a gift is enough for four and amuses my bouche as an opening act. And I admire the crisp perfection of cornmeal crusted onion rings stacked high and salted with devil-may-care brio.
Since there’s no vodka in the house, one of our friends orders a lemonade with muddled berries – fresh, tangy, remarkably, not too sweet. He has an itch for the pork taquitos too. I’d skip them myself. Of course we’re sharing the macaroni and cheese, plump shells floating in molten cheddar and Gruyère and leek cream with a nice crunch of parmesan on top. Not my Mom’s macaroni for sure. “It’s too rich,” one of our companions protests. Of course it’s too rich. But if I knew I was going to die tomorrow anyway, I’d finish it.
And yes, at last, the burgers. The four of us are sharing two “originals” with Gruyère and caramelized onion and rosemary aioli, and a third cheddar-bacon with a slice of raw onion, lettuce and tomato. I’m poised for the exuberance of perfection I remember from downtown. But no. I’m in burger shock. The sprawling greaser is not seared and it’s barely warm, almost raw. Was the kitchen spooked because it’s me and I said “rare” in that firm voice I use when I say “rare?” It’s the fifth night and the house is packed. Is the griddle too crowded? I nibble the bacon, the tater tots and more than my share of splendid house fries, better than the soggier Tuscan fries with herbs and parsley and an extra hit of salt from parmesan. The Road Food Warrior finishes off my burger. “I need four more napkins,” he tells the server.
A spoonful or three of brownie sundae with espresso, caramel, and vanilla ice cream is just enough sweetness, and chocolate with salted peanuts restores my good mood. What an inspired touch, those salty nuts. I’d never have known it if the waitress hadn’t forgotten to hold back the peanuts as we requested.
Of course I’ll be back. I might wait a month for my arteries to recover. I’ll try to reserve. The house takes limited reservations to hold tables for walk-ins. I’ll order that oozing burger and the tater tots. By then the griddle will be smoking hot and I’ll expect the Five Napkin burger of my dreams.
2315 Broadway at 84th Street. 212 333 4488. Monday through Friday 11:30 am to midnight. Saturday and Sunday 11 am to midnight. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 4 pm.
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