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Arthur Schwartz ...The Food Maven
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Porcini, Potato and Barley Soup
Serves 6
This is my own Italianized version of the standard Eastern European mushroom-barley soup. I once served it before a pork roast flavored with lemon peel, rosemary and garlic, which I thought would be the real piece de resistance of the party, but everyone filled up so much on the first course soup and garlic toast that they ate the pork only to be polite. As I remember, no one asked for the pork recipe after the party, but two guests asked for the soup recipe. One of them, Louise Sorel, the soap opera actress (on Days of Our Lives), called several days later from L.A. to find out how to make it for her friend, Dame Judith Anderson. Of course I was thrilled that a famous person was going to eat my soup. And Louise and I agreed: the soup, garlic bread , a mixed green and vegetable salad, then, for dessert, a nice slice of Gorgonzola or Roquefort drizzled with honey was a magnificent menu to put before a Dame.
1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped (about 2 cups)
3 medium carrots, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 large rib celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 medium-large potato, peeled if thick-skinned, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 ounces prosciutto, coarsely chopped or cut into strips
1/2 cup barley
7-8 cups beef broth (may be half canned, half water)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Coarse salt, as needed
Finely chopped fresh parsley, oregano, marjoram or mint
1. In a small bowl or cup, combine the mushrooms with 1 cup of very hot tap water. Let them soak at least 20 minutes, or until you're ready to add to them to the soup. Alternately, combine the mushrooms and tap water in a bowl or cup and microwave on HIGH for 1 minute, then let stand 1 minute.
2. In a 4- to 6-quart pot, over medium heat, heat the oil and saute the onions until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Add the carrots and celery. Saute another 8 to 10 minutes, until the vegetables are beginning to brown.
4. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms.
5. Stir the mushrooms into the vegetables; saute another 2 or 3 minutes.
6. Add the potatoes, prosciutto, barley, broth and pepper. Add the reserved mushroom liquid, passing it through a coffee filter or fine strainer lined with cheesecloth. Raise the heat to high, cover and bring to a boil. Adjust heat, partially cover and simmer steadily for 1 hour, until barley is very tender and the soup has become thick.
7. Taste, and correct with salt and pepper.
8. The soup can be served immediately, but it is best after it rests a few hours, or up to a few days, and is then re-heated. The soup will thicken as it stands and you will need to add more broth or water to thin it out. However, bring the soup back to a simmer before judging if it needs any more liquid. It should be a thick, not brothy, soup.
9. Serve very hot in deep or flat bowls, sprinkled with a chopped herb if desired -- mint is amazingly appropriate.
Advance Preparation: See step 8; it freezes perfectly.
