About Arthur:  The New York Times Magazine called Arthur Schwartz “a walking Google of food and restaurant knowledge.” As the restaurant critic and executive food editor of the New York Daily News, which he was for 18 years, he was called The Schwartz Who Ate New York.  Nowadays, he is best known as The Food Maven, the name of his website. Whatever the sobriquet, he is acknowledged as one of the country’s foremost experts on food, cooking, culinary history, restaurants, and restaurant history.

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My New Meatloaf

The motivation for creating this meatloaf recipe was simple. I had four people coming for dinner and stashed in my freezer was five pounds of ground beef left over from a Naples At Table book promotion event -- I made meatballs. If I didn't defrost and use the meat immediately, it would be lost.

The rest of the ingredients are just ingredients that I had (and anyone would have) in the house that day, except perhaps for those cans of Hunt's tomato sauce that I had stocked in the pantry for just such a meatloaf. Canned tomato sauce (either Hunt's or an old-time brand called Sauce Arturo) was, my mother always claimed, the secret to her excellent meatloaves.

I use a substantial amount of breadcrumbs in my meatloaves these days, which my mother didn't. Bread gives lightness, I've learned from my Neapolitan friends, who are supreme at stretching a bit of ground meat into fantastic food.

When I made this loaf -- just for a Sunday supper for some neighbors -- I thought it was good, but not nearly as good as my friends thought. In a delightfully silly moment of exuberance, my food consultant friend, Michael Whitman, did a little dance for it -- literally. Michael is a tough customer, so I thought: "pretty good, Schwartz. I'll share this with the audience tomorrow." I did, but since then we've gotten so many written requests for the recipe I feel I must share it. It seems like everyone is always looking for another meatloaf recipe.

In all immodesty, it's a very good meatloaf, but please don't count on it making you break out in a dance.


My New Meatloaf
Makes 2 loaves, serving at least 8 (or fewer, with leftovers)


3 medium onions, finely minced (about 3 cups)
2 tablespoons peanut oil (or other vegetable oil)
5 eggs
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (I used the new Angostura Worcestershire)
1 rounded teaspoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly and coarsely ground black pepper
1 8-ounce can Hunt's tomato sauce (not low-salt variety)
5 1/2 pounds ground beef
1 quart fresh breadcrumbs (see note)


In a medium skillet, fry the onions in the peanut oil over medium heat until the onions are deep golden, even beginning to brown a little.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat together the eggs, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, salt, pepper and can of tomato sauce.

In a very large bowl, combine the beef, the fried onions, the breadcrumbs, and the liquid mixture. Starting with a table fork, mix all the ingredients together, making sure to bring the meat from the bottom of the bowl to the top. Once the mixture is amalgamated, start using your hands to make sure it is thoroughly mixed and especially that the bread is well incorporated.

To form the loaves, scoop up half the mixture with two hands, pressing it together while still holding it over the bowl, then transfer it to a baking sheet. Shape into a loaf 10 to 12 inches long and 5 to 6 inches wide. Compact the loaf well by pressing it together, then smooth the surface (and cracks or crevices) with your fingertips.

Prepare the second loaf as you did the first. Refrigerate until an hour or so before baking, then let sit at room temperature to take the chill off the meat.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes. Allow to rest 15 to 20 minutes before slicing.

Note: To make the breadcrumbs, I used a loaf of supermarket Italian bread. I sliced off the crusts and "grated" the bread, a handful of cubes at a time, in the blender. Do not overwork the crumbs or they will compact. They should remain fluffy. (Supermarket sliced bread is generally too sweet for my taste.)