Insalata di Mare
Seafood Salad
Serves 6
Insalata di mare is made all over Italy, but the traditional Neapolitan version is very particular and somewhat different and simpler than many other recipes. The seafood is always whole mussels and clams, small shrimp and cut-up octopus. The dressing is always olive oil, lemon juice and an "abundant" amount of finely cut parsley, as the old recipes always say. And it never contains onion or celery. The other typically Neapolitan aspect of this recipe is the way the seafood is cooked. First the bivalves are steamed open in a dry pan, then the broth they exude is used to cook first the shrimp, then the octopus. The resulting rich seafood broth can be recycled into another fish dish – say aqua pazza -- but it is not added to the salad.
2 pounds mussels (results in 1 1/2 cups cooked, shelled mussels)
1 pound Manila clams (results in 1/2 cup cooked, shelled clams)
1 pound octopus, without the head (results in 2 cups cooked)
1 pound small shrimp (results in 2 cups cooked and shelled)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 4 lemons (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
1/ 2 cup parsley, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
Scrub the mussels under cold running water, removing any traces of beard, and place them in a bowl of cold water to soak for about 20 minutes. Change the water after 10 minutes. Scrub the clams under cold running water and let them soak for 20 minutes too, changing the water after ten minutes. Drain both mussels and clams, rinsing them very well under cold water.
In a large saute pan with a cover, place the shellfish together in one layer, cover and, over high heat, let the shellfish steam for 3 to 5 minutes, or just until the shells have opened.
Drain the mussels and clams, reserving the liquid they have exuded. When they are just cool enough to handle, remove the shells, discard them, and place the meat in a covered container. Refrigerate. Be sure to add any extra liquid to the reserved liquid which should now be filtered into a clean 2 1/2 quart non-reactive saucepan.
Rinse the octopus well, place it in the shellfish liquid and let it cook, covered, over medium-low heat until tender, for 30 minutes to an hour.
Remove the octopus from the cooking broth and set it on a plate to cool.
Rinse the shrimp well in cold water and place them in the cooking broth over medium-high heat. Cover the pan and bring to a slow boil. Make sure to remove the shrimp with a small strainer as soon as they are cooked, in about 3 minutes. Set them aside to cool slightly.
Slice the octopus into 1/4-inch rounds and place them in a salad bowl. Add the cooked mussels and clams. Shell the shrimp and add them.
In a small bowl, whisk together the rest of the ingredients and pour the dressing over the seafood. Toss gently with a rubber spatula, adjusting the seasonings to your taste.
Cover tightly and place in the refrigerator to marinate for at least an hour. If you leave the salad in for longer be sure to toss it from time to time to evenly coat the seafood with the dressing.
Remove from the refrigerator about a half hour before serving to take the chilly edg
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